There are 74 peaks in excess of 2,000m squeezed into Andorra’s 470 square km
Credit: FOTOLIA
Little Andorra is the perfect place to get to grips with pedalling uphill for inordinate lengths of time. Pick a road at random from its capital, Andorra la Vella, and the chances are you’ll soon be en route to a Pyrenean pass. There are 74 peaks in excess of 2,000m squeezed into its 470 square km, making it heaven for skiers in winter – and for gluttons for two-wheeled punishment in summer. The scenery is rugged and dramatic, it is littered with traditional mountain restaurants, or borda, perfect for hearty post-ride sustenance, and it even boasts Europe’s largest spa, Caldea, the ideal spot for a a revitalising rubdown.
Such factors will have been behind the decision to visit it for a stage of last year’s Vuelta a Espana (described as the toughest in the race’s 80-year history), as well as for this year’s Tour de France.
Keen amateurs may well point out that Andorra’s climbs lack the mythical status of the Tour de France’s most visited mountains. There is no Ventoux or Alpe d’Huez. But that means far fewer tourists. Cycling hotspots such as Majorca can get ridiculously crowded – but here I spent three days in the saddle and spotted just a handful of other groups, even in the immediate aftermath of a major pro race. It was like being let in on a secret.
And some of its mountains already have a role in Tour de France history – albeit an inglorious one. The road to the ski resort of Arcalis, one of the highest in the Pyrenees at 2,223m, hosted what has been described as professional cycling’s “Ben Johnson moment” and “the zenith of the EPO era”, when, in the 1997 edition, 22-year-old German Jan Ullrich, on debut, shot up it in abnormally rapid fashion. It returned in 2010, when Lance Armstrong and Bradley Wiggins were among the riders, and will feature today. It’s to be hoped that similar controversies can be avoided this time round.
The tiny country has appeared in the Tour a few times before
The climb is long, steady, and gets better-looking as it rises, with some spectacular views north towards the border with France and a series of tight hairpins (manna from heaven for cyclists). I saw very little of it, however. Mist and rain reduced visibility to mere metres; at one point I was forced to take evasive action by an errant horse. And while I set off wearing short sleeves in temperatures of 20C (68F), they plummeted to 2C (37F) at the summit. Barely able to grip the handlebars, I sought the refuge of the van for the descent.
Far more enjoyable was the final day’s climb to La Rabassa, made under blue skies. It was the longest of the trip, at 16km with an altitude gain of 1,000m, but after a steep opening salvo the gradient was steady. It meant I could enjoy the views of the valley, rather than gurn my way to the top. Georgina even announced that she’d had enough of watching the cyclists have all the fun and said she’d like to give it a go – despite having never pottered more than a few miles on a Boris bike. We “pros” praised her desire, while quietly doubting her chances of surviving more than a mile or two.
An hour later we reached the top, and waited for her to do likewise – in the passenger seat of the van, we presumed. But soon after she pedalled around the final bend, gracefully pulled up alongside us, and removed her helmet.
“Chapeau!”, we cried, genuinely shocked. “I don’t know what all the fuss is about,” she beamed.
How to do it
Sports Tours International (0161 703 8161; sportstoursinternational.co.uk) offers a variety of Tour de France and Vuelta a Espana packages. A five-day 2016 Tour de France itinerary, featuring guided rides and the chance to watch stages 18, 19 and 20, including access to VIP hospitality areas, costs from £899pp. The price includes b & b accommodation, transfers to and from Geneva airport and all transport (including bikes), but excludes flights.
More information
visitandorra.com or corner.visitandorra.com/en/digital-guides/bicycle-touring/
Source link : https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/andorra/articles/is-andorra-the-most-underrated-cycling-destination-in-europe/
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Publish date : 2016-07-10 07:00:00
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