Spend the day in jail
Lukiskes Prison, which was used as a setting for Stranger Things, opened in 1904 and closed in 2019. It housed a wide range of inmates, including those imprisoned during two world wars, the Soviet invasion and after Lithuania’s independence. It was opened to the public in 2021 and you can now take guided tours around incredibly well-preserved passages – you’ll see hiding holes used by inmates, the graffiti they scrawled and some of the items they made away from prying eyes, including a homemade gun. The central courtyard is now used as a performance space, and you can enjoy a cocktail in a “cellblock bar”. There’s a packed calendar of art exhibitions too, courtesy of the artists who now rent out former cells as studio spaces.
Check out Užupis
Close to the city centre, Užupis is a bohemian riverside neighbourhood which declared itself a republic in 1997. It’s home to artists, writers and musicians, with an ethos that’s summed up in a constitution you can read on Paupio Street – the key principles have been translated into dozens of languages and engraved onto metal plaques. You’ll find a handful of cafes and craft shops here, but the main draw is the neighbourhood’s general quirkiness. Swing by the Užupis Border Control building for starters – it’s an information point and souvenir shop, and you can even have your passport graced by an Užupis Republic stamp.
Where to stay
Vilnius has some gorgeous boutique hotels, including the beautiful (but pricey) Hotel Pacai, set in a Baroque palace in the old town, and with a spa, hammam and glossy marble interiors.
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The Hilton Garden Inn is a funky crash pad with a rooftop terrace and a slick interior. The design firm behind it has given various nods to the country’s past, including a fireplace shaped like a Pagan altar (Lithuania was the last Pagan nation in Europe, finally accepting Catholicism in the 14th century).
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Where to eat
Paupys Market, Vilnius (Go Vilnius/Saulius Žiūra)
For traditional Lithuanian cuisine, it’s got to be the old town. Surprisingly, it rarely gets crowded, and there are some fantastic restaurants here. You’ll find Restaurant Lokys tucked into a medieval merchant’s house, specialising in so-called “hunters’ dishes” – think venison roasts, wild boar and beaver meat stew.
Eating on a budget? Vilnius is famous for its canteens – cheap and cheerful restaurants serving the same dishes they served during the Soviet era. Try Zilvino Restoranas, where a bowl of delicious borscht (a beetroot soup popular in eastern Europe) will set you back €2.50.
For stylish surrounds, try Paupys Market – an airy, fern-filled food hall where you’ll find everything from Japanese delicacies to dishes from Lithuania’s neighbours. The Georgian bites at Chacapuri Bistro are highly recommended – order the Georgian cheese bread garnished with an egg yolk.
Where to drink
Old town hangout Nick and Nora is a tiny cocktail bar famous for its use of local ingredients. Try the quince negroni, made with Lithuanian quince, or the penicillin highball, which uses the sweetness of Lithuanian honey to offset the heaviness of smoked bacon schnapps. Pub-lined Vilnius Street, in the city centre, is the main nightlife drag.
Where to shop
The huge G9 shopping centre on Gediminas Avenue is where you’ll find high street brands such as H&M, but our favourite retail-therapy spot is the old town, which has several fantastic boutiques. Terra Recognita has beautiful jewellery and sculptures made by Lithuanian artist Saulius Vaitiekunas. Many of his pieces incorporate stones fished out of the Baltic Sea.
Baltic amber, formed from pine resin which has spent millions of years at sea being washed ashore, is known as “Lithuanian gold” here, and you’ll see it everywhere, usually incorporated into beautiful pieces of jewellery. For the best quality stuff, head to Gintraka (Ausros Vartu 13).
The best views are from the Hill of Three Crosses (Go Vilnius)
Nuts and bolts
What currency do I need?
Euros.
What language do they speak?
Lithuanian, although English is widely spoken.
Should I tip?
Around 10 per cent is standard.
What’s the time difference?
GMT+2.
How should I get around?
Vilnius is a walkable city, but there are trams and buses to hop on, too. Vilniecio kortele is Vilnius’s version of the Oyster card. A Vilniecio kortele will cost €1.50, and you can then load it up for certain time periods, which range from 30-minute tickets (€0.65) to three-day ones (€8).
What’s the best view?
Summit the Hill of Three Crosses and you’ll be rewarded with views of the old town, the 15th-century Bernardine Garden and the city’s serpentine river. The hill’s three crosses were erected in honour of Franciscan friars who died as martyrs in the 14th century when pagans tied them to crosses and threw them down the hill.
Insider tip?
Vilnius University is an explosion of Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque architecture, but don’t just admire it from the perimeter. At the end of a corridor in the university’s Lithuanian Philology Centre is a frescoed hall painted by famous Lithuanian artist Petras Repsys in 1986. The Dali-esque The Seasons of the Year fresco covers the walls and ceilings of several interconnected rooms and depicts scenes from Lithuanian mythology.
Getting there
There are direct flights to Vilnius from London Luton (Ryanair and Wizz Air), Stansted (Ryanair) or City airport (Lot).
Source link : https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/europe/lithuania/vilnius-travel-guide-best-hotels-restaurants-things-to-do-b2256508.html
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Publish date : 2024-02-02 08:00:00
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