The beehive of Anton Jansa
Credit: getty
The next Slovene we met was carpenter Franc Mohorc, who immediately invited us in for a schnapps. This became a common occurrence, regardless of the hour; liquid hospitality. It will keep you healthy, in moderation, Franc urged as he poured the shots. Certainly he looked younger than his 80 years. And I felt extra spring (or wobble?) in my step as we climbed up through the forest.
By the end of the day, and after two more schnapps, I’d also visited a nunnery-turned-Gestapo prison and a guesthouse belonging to Slavko Avsenik, the world’s most-played musician (turns out polka is a really big deal). And all around, the greenery glowed, the mountains reared.
For all its more offbeat diversions, the Juliana Trail can’t really ignore Lake Bled, and this honeypot of Slovenian tourism was my start-point the next day. It was as fairy tale in real life as the postcards suggest: mirror water, looming castle, alpine backdrop, tiny isle. Swiss doctor Arnold Rikli popularised tourism here in the 1850s, espousing the benefits of bathing naked, walking barefoot and eating well. I remained clothed and shod as I explored with guide Luka. As for eating well, Luka assured me the ice cream on the island was some of the country’s best; as a kid, he’d swim all the way over just to buy a cone. Rikli might not have approved of my scoop of hazelnutty Bled Bellringer but Luka wasn’t wrong.
Lake Bled
Credit: getty
The island was tourist-thick, but before long we were back on the trail, leaving Bled’s busyness to climb north-west, into Triglav National Park and into the Pokljuka Gorge. Glacially carved, moist as rainforest and, in parts, only 3ft wide, the gorge was empty but for the pigeons. Indeed, this cut-through has long been a good way to lose people – during the Second World War, Nazi-fighting partisans would hide amid its folds. We squeezed through the narrowest slots, discovered secret wildflower gardens, hurdled logs that were scattered like pick-up sticks before being disgorged onto a springy alpine plateau.
The following day was spent with Marko Lenarcic, one of the key instigators of the Juliana Trail. Together we advanced towards undeveloped Lake Bohinj – Bled’s bigger, wilder sibling – passing the sort of diversity that characterises the route: high swamp, saffron-flecked meadows, the home of a poet, an 18th-century stone road and a string of little villages. In Studor we stopped at the farm of the Gartner family; the oldest son – a fourth-generation cheesemaker – showed us the old copper kettle and paddles they still use to make their hard Bohinj cheese and lusty mohant, a regional speciality that, it’s said, gives you energy for the day. It’s also said to pair well with schnapps.
Kayaking in the Soca Valley
Credit: getty
For my final sample of both trail and Slovenia, I skipped ahead, into the Soca Valley. As he drove me along the winding roads from Bohinj, Marko revealed that we were bypassing some of his favourite sections – wilder stages, up on the ridge, where you’re more likely to see deer (or bears) than people. But even here the trail drops to villages, the link between landscape and community intrinsic to the route.
Marko left me with guide Mia for my final walk, from Kobarid to Bovec, along the Soca River. This was a fiercely fought frontline during the First World War, not least the Battle of Kobarid, which saw Austro-Hungarian and German forces push back the Italians with brutal efficiency (and poison gas). So resounding was the defeat that “Caporetto” – the Italian name for Kobarid – has passed into the Italian language, meaning “crushing defeat”. The hills hereabout are still scarred with trenches and ordnance, though along the river we were more focused on the yellow-spotted salamanders, the wild strawberries and the noisy plume of Kozjak Falls.
Kozjak Falls
Credit: getty
Sadly, the weather was good for waterfalls, but not for views – rain lashed and low cloud tangled the tree tops. But the cyan Soca dazzled regardless, like a peacock strutting through fog. We tried to channel some of its weather-be-damned swagger. But we were getting awfully wet. Only one thing for it. “We’ll drop in at my father’s house,” Mia suggested, “he makes really good schnapps…”
Slovenia essentials
Currently, UK travellers can visit Slovenia without needing to self-isolate on their return to Britain. Health checks are conducted at all border entry points. If you display signs of coronavirus you will be refused entry. Face coverings must be worn in indoor public areas where social distancing is not possible (including shops) and on public transport. See the FCO website for more advice.
Local operator Hike & Bike can organise trips along the Julian Alps Trail. A seven-night self-guided Julian Alps Hiking Trail trip costs from around €1,000 (£900) including accommo-dation; flights not included (00 386 31 374660; hikeandbike.si). Further info: slovenia.info/en; slovenia-outdoor.com
Source link : https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/slovenia/articles/slovenia-adventure-holiday/
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Publish date : 2020-07-31 07:00:00
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