Morning: Explore the old town
Lunch: Ginko
Afternoon: Landeszeughaus (Styrian Armoury)
Drink at: Klapotetz
Evening: Schlossberg Hill
Dinner: Landhauskeller
Day two
Morning: Kunsthaus (Art Museum)
Lunch: Kunsthaus Café
Afternoon: Eggenberg Palace
Drink at: Die Scherbe
Evening: Kunsthaus district and Murinsel
Dinner: Mohrenwirt
The Kunsthaus is one of the best contemporary art galleries in Austria
ALAMY
What to do
• Start with a saunter around the winding streets and hidden courtyards of the Innere Stadt (old town). Take in the grand Hauptplatz, the beautiful and hushed courtyard of the Landhaus, the Renaissance provincial parliament building, as well as the Glockenspiel bell tower, which has chimed here since 1905 (at 11am, 3pm and 6pm). Later check out the Burg, a 15th-century castle with an unusual, double-spiral gothic staircase, then the cathedral and the very impressive Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II (free; graz-dom.graz-seckau.at). If you want to catch one of the city’s vibrant farmers’ markets the largest, on Kaiser Josef Platz, is nearby (Mon-Sat until 1pm).
• Forget anything you’ve seen or heard about arms and armour collections, the Landeszeughaus (Styrian Armoury) is in a different league. One of the largest historical collections of its kind, it has a staggering 32,000 objects on display, across four floors of a 17th-century arms depot. Admire treasures from broadswords to horse armour and inlaid firearms (£10;museum-joanneum.at).
• To put the city into context head up Schlossberg Hill, the former site of a fortress that was largely demolished by Napoleon in 1809 — only the clocktower was spared, after the city paid a large ransom. Now its flower-filled terraces offer beautiful views across Graz, at their best in the evening. Take the steps or funicular up the hill and descend using the 175m-long underground slide (from £6; schlossbergrutsche.at) or through the Second World War tunnels (free).
• Nothing defines modern Graz better than the Kunsthaus, one of the best contemporary art galleries in Austria, opened during the city’s stint as European capital of culture. Dubbed the “Friendly Alien” by its designers, Peter Cook and Colin Fournier, the building is the city’s architectural show-stealer — a weird and wonderful construction that looks a little like a giant sea slug. Recent exhibitions have included the works of the American artist Sol LeWitt and Amazons of Pop!, showcasing female artists of the genre (£10; museum-joanneum.at).
• Jump on a No 1 tram to Schloss Eggenberg, one of the most extraordinary baroque palaces in Austria. The state rooms are decorated with more than 500 ceiling paintings from the 17th century that are so well preserved they appear to be almost new — join a guided tour to see them (£15; museum-joanneum.at).
• The opening of the Kunsthaus on the west bank of the river — previously an unloved and famously seedy part of town — transformed and revitalised the area, which is now unquestionably the coolest part of Graz. Take a stroll along Mariahilfer Strasse, which stretches between the Kunsthaus and Lendplatz and has shops supporting social projects, and have a look at Murinsel, the quirky artificial island on the river, connected to its banks by footbridges (free).
Only the clocktower of Schlossberg Hill wasn’t destroyed by Napoleon in 1809
HARRY SCHIFFER PHOTODESIGN
Where to eat and drinkGinko
Try this friendly, relaxed little vegan restaurant near Jakominiplatz. Load up from the buffet, choosing from a wide, ever-changing range of globally inspired hot and cold dishes, with flavours ranging from Asian to Italian and including soups and salads, then take your plate to be weighed (Mon-Sat; £1.85 per 100g; restaurant-ginko.at).
Klapotetz
A cosy wine bar with a vast selection of bottles from the treasure trove of vineyards across Styria and south Burgenland, including at least 25 offered by the glass. The name refers to the clicking, wooden mini-windmills used widely in Styria to scare birds off crops. Try a crisp sauvignon blanc, a floral gelber muskateller from Südsteiermark or a brooding blaufränkisch from central Burgenland (from £4 a glass; klapo.at).
Traditional schnitzel at the Landhauskeller restaurant
LUCIJA NOVAK
Landhauskeller
Serving traditional, regional classics in a suitably atmospheric setting, this rambling old inn stands beside the armoury museum. Expect elegant dishes such as endive salad or fillet of char with wild-garlic sauce and linguine (mains from £14; landhauskeller.at).
Kunsthaus Café
This isn’t your typical café for museum visitors; thanks to a contemporary, post-industrial feel and great food (including vegetarian and gluten-free options) it’s a popular lunch stop for local residents too. Go for one of the sharing platters — packed with flatbreads, crispy tempura shrimp and a salad with apple, walnut and rocket — and finish with cheesecake or banoffee pie (sharing platters from £8; kunsthauscafe.co.at).
Die Scherbe
This excellent café and bar near Lendplatz has oodles of Lebensgefühl (zest for life). Drop in for impeccably made coffee or a glass of local wine or gin, not to mention superb desserts such as amaretto-and-cherry-brandy crumble and one of the best brunches in town (wine from £4 a glass; scherbe.com).
Mohrenwirt turns out beautifully prepared, traditional dishes
RENE STRASSER
Mohrenwirt
With a focus on local, organic produce, Mohrenwirt turns out beautifully prepared, traditional dishes from around Styria, many with a modern twist. Its mains include Ausseerland pike fillet with einkorn risotto and wild garlic, and organic pork schnitzel with parsley potatoes and lemon (mains from £15; mohrenwirt-graz.at).
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Where to stayHotel Das Weitzer
Das Weitzer Hotel has 204 rooms
Simple but stylish
The huge, light-flooded reception of this hotel on the west bank of the river is home to a florist, while upstairs its 204 rooms are furnished with leather armchairs, parquet floors and bold-print headboards. The higher-category rooms come with freestanding bathtubs and balconies; those in the Economy bracket have a modern feel with fun design twists, such as a minibar inside a suitcase. There is also a rooftop sauna, with a small charge to hire a robe (room-only doubles from £90; hotelweitzer.com).
Grand Hôtel Wiesler 
Hôtel Wiesler offers design flair
KOENIGSHOFER MICHAEL
Modern design in an art nouveau building
Beside the river, just across the road from the Kunsthaus in an early 20th-century building, the Grand Hôtel Wiesler offers design flair with colourful handpainted sinks from Mexico and original artworks, including a prominent installation by the contemporary artist Clemens Hollerer in the lobby. The 102 rooms are bright and airy, offset in places by industrial touches such as stripped plaster walls and typewriters; one of the suites is inspired by the art of Banksy. Go for a room on one of the upper (second or third) floors for fantastic views across the river to the old town. Breakfasts here are particularly good (£20) and the bar is a worthy stop for a sundowner, even if you’re not staying overnight (room-only doubles from £125; grandhotelwiesler.com).
Augarten Art Hotel
Arty boutique near the centre
There are about 200 works by local artists on display — from sculpture to paintings — and that’s before you get to the modern classic furniture from Ligne Roset. A penthouse with a private lift has views over the Schlossberg, with more affordable options ranging from compact doubles to family apartments with microwaves and fridges. There is also a pool with a sun terrace, as well as a sauna and gym (room-only doubles from £131; augartenhotel.at)
Getting there and around
Fly to Vienna with Austrian Airlines, British Airways or Ryanair, then take a train to Graz (three hours direct from the airport or change at Vienna Hauptbahnhof). A Graz Card gives you use of the city’s trams — the No 1 line is a convenient way to get from the station to the old town (a 20-minute walk) or Schloss Eggenberg. Bikes can be rented from the main station.
Visit responsibly
London to Vienna by train takes 13 hours. Graz is a great base to see more of the surrounding region — make the 45-minute rail trip to Ehrenhausen, from where you can explore the South Styrian Wine Road by ebike.
Rudolf Abraham was a guest of Graz Tourism (graztourismus.at) and Grand Hotel Wiesler (grandhotelwiesler.com)
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Publish date : 2024-10-08 23:01:00
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