LIKE MANY I’M SURE, my initial vision of Iceland was of cold weather, waterfalls and the northern lights. I had vivid images of myself gazing at iridescent skies or standing in front of majestic reams of tumbling water. Puffins travel to Iceland briefly during the summer season, so I really hoped to see them before they migrated, and our late-August/early-September trip also coincided with the end of whale season. These natural wonders seemed like plenty to hang a visit on.
It was with great enthusiasm that from the minute we landed in Reykjavik I began to check off the tourist greatest hits. But while almost always having a clear plan going in, I do not overbook vacations and am sure to allow time for wandering and making unexpected discoveries. On this front, Iceland rewarded me in spades. It taught me that thinking off-the-cuff offers more flexibility and fun; it taught me to push past limits that I usually set for myself. Some of the top highlights of our trip came from experiences we couldn’t have anticipated in advance. I stood quietly in awe of the glaciers, black-sand beaches, geysers, seals, ice formations—and yes, puffins and waterfalls—and took many photos. Many. Many. Photos. The images are gorgeous because Iceland is a perfect model, but I still doubt whether the pictures truly portray my deep appreciation of the exquisite natural beauty of this country, where I was delighted by the views I’d dreamed of and surprised by moments I’d never imagined.
I am not an experienced hiker but a trip to Iceland can bring out the outdoorsy side of even the most hardened urbanite. I had bought new trek-wear and sturdy hiking boots, but I was still surprised by the physical demands of what I encountered there—and by the choices I made. After driving long stretches of road past beautiful green landscapes, I found myself hiking up and behind waterfalls driven by a determination to see what was there, to push myself to the top. Yes, I tried to maintain common sense and pay attention to the limits of my ability, but each step made me want to push myself even more. At Skogafoss in particular, with such steep grade and pitch, I felt I was scaling a mountain and I felt like a new woman after I reached the top.
The views behind the falls or at the waterfall summits were spectacular and the feeling of accomplishment after the climb made what I was taking in all the more magnificent. Photographs cannot convey the euphoria I experienced at doing my personal best and being rewarded with these amazing memories, but when I look at them, I remember the feeling.
Hikes were not required for every photo opportunity. The lovely churches dotting villages and towns were all memorable—bonus stops during our unscheduled wandering. Many of these picturesque churches were small and quaint in structure. Some churches blended in with the landscape but for the steeple that usually towered above.
Of course, the largest church and probably the most photographed landmark in Reykjavik is Hallgrimskrikja, in the city center at the end of Rainbow Road. More than offering a perfect photo opportunity, Rainbow Road exemplifies Iceland’s appreciation for diversity on a large scale. Reykjavík Pride is one of the most beloved pride events on Earth, and there are more than 100 languages in active usage in this country of just 376,000 residents—nearly a quarter of whom are of a foreign background.
Hallgrimskrikja, in the city center at the end of Rainbow Road. Photo by Holly Hatcher-Frazier
Hallgrimskirkja church in center of Reykjavik. Photo by Getty Images/Cavan Images
With all the physical activity we experienced on our trip, Iceland did not disappoint on the food. Perhaps you’ve heard of the famous Icelandic hot dog (spelled pulsa or pylsa, depending on your Nordic bent), or know this is yet another country renowned for its fish and chips. But there is remarkable fine dining. My sister and I had an exquisite 20-course meal at Ox (details below), an intimate restaurant with an speakeasy called Amma. Ox boasts an interactive meal x chef’s demonstration for a 17-person-max seating. Each seat is a great location to watch the cooking in action, and each dish is a work of art. Listening to the chefs describe the combination of ingredients and flavors was revelatory, providing a better understanding of Icelandic culture and the bounty of this seemingly harsh environment.
Another unique dining experience was recommended by several locals—surprisingly, because it is also Instagram- and TikTok-famous—as the absolute restaurant in Iceland. After a few unsolicited recommendations, I knew I couldn’t miss Fridheimar. This restaurant will make you clamor for… tomato soup. Seriously. Even if you are not a fan of tomato soup, Fridheimar’s, accompanied by several types of mouthwatering breads, will change your mind. The menu here is all things tomato. Which is actually a bananas proposition because growing tomatoes in Iceland is a huge challenge given the environment and terrain. The restaurant is housed within a working greenhouse, where tomatoes grow all year round, and Fridheimar takes great pride in offering the freshest ingredients and the epitome of a farm to table experience. We ordered more tomato items than I’ve ever envisioned eating in one sitting, including tomato desserts—but I still regret that no one tried the tomato beer.
Iceland provided a new appreciation of what I could do in the rain. It’s a place where you have no choice but to revel in it. But on a particularly chilly and windy day, I found the Perlan Museum to be a great indoor activity. I love a museum. And, recommended by locals, this one could rival any science center I’ve visited. I learned much about Iceland’s natural environment including its geology, the indigenous animals, scientific phenomenon like the Northern Lights, and the nation’s sustainability efforts. There’s even a recreated ice cave in the museum itself. Thank goodness, for it was here that I realized that I would never want to find myself in a real ice cave. Although beautiful, the intense cold and the tight space were not a good combination for my adventurous-lite spirit! I appreciated being able to find this out on a controlled scale.
Perhaps my most valuable life lesson was the need for flexibility when traveling. Weather impacted our daily schedules on several occasions, and we had to improvise. For example, I never did see the northern lights. But when we adjusted and made new plans, we often found ourselves interacting with locals in more informal settings. Being flexible meant we saw more of Iceland than we had initially planned.
Hopeful of spotting puffins before they migrated, we went to a location where they were known to have nests. Unfortunately, there was only one puffin sighting there, by my son. It was disappointing, but puffin-migration patterns are beyond our control. We took it like adults and moved on. At our next stop, Reynisfjara, we realized that lone bird had not gotten the memo because here were colonies upon colonies of puffins! Reynisfjara is the black-sand beach where you are told not to turn your back to the waves—the infamous sneaker waves that surge farther up the beach than expected and can catch you unaware and turn deadly. And so, while I fell so deeply in love with puffins that they became my new mascot and I could have stayed here all day watching them, it was cold and windy and I was terrified of the sneaker waves. So we left.
But we left tremendously happy. The lesson: We had only to change direction to find what we sought. It was a thrill to watch puffins nesting on cliffs or soaring through the air. Initially I thought we had missed the opportunity, but sometimes you have to turn the corner and keep your eyes open.
The Details, or Holly’s Tips for Your Trip to Iceland:
Hotel
Courtesy of Reykjavik Residence Hotel
Courtesy of Reykjavik Residence Hotel
FROM LEFT: Tasty bagels in Duo Lounge; Reykjavik Residence’s breakfast baskets are pretty spectacular. Courtesy of Reykjavik Residence Hotel (2)
We absolutely loved the Reykjavik Residence Hotel, in easy walking distance to shops, bakeries, and tourist areas. It includes both a traditional hotel rooms and “extended-stay” options, which still do daily housekeeping. (Note that there is no garage so you’ll need to park on the street.) Among the cool features:
1. Fresh bread from a local bakery delivered to your door each morning
2. Daily breakfast each day, done in a creative DIY way. They leave a variety basket of breakfast goodies in your fridge and then replenish it each day. Aside from milk and juices, options include hard boiled eggs, cheeses, produce, cold cuts and condiments and more. If you don’t like something, just leave it in the basket and it’ll be replaced with something else the next day. For example, during our stay there was a red bell pepper that no one wanted so we left it in the basket, and then we got some lovely apples to go with our kiwi they had already provided the day before. The Icelandic yogurt was a hit among everyone.
3. Board games—key when you want to relax after a long day, or the rainy weather keeps you in for a bit.
Our two-bedroom apartment with beautiful views and bed-and-breakfast package was roughly ISK 545,000 for a five-night stay, which was close to US$4,000. Based on our needs and preferences, this was more economical than getting two hotel rooms
Restaurants
OX: A seat at OX costs ISK 59,000 per person (roughly US$430 depending on the exchange rate), is prepaid with your reservation, and is restricted to those over the age of 10. This price includes the food, drink and service of your meal, including wine pairings or non-alcoholic drink pairings, and coffee. No additional purchases are required to complete the evening, however, additions can be requested in advance and are subject to confirmation. The dining experience starts at 18:15 for all guests. Doors open at 18:00 for those who wish to have a drink before dining. Lunch starts at 12.30. The whole experience takes about 3.5 hours.
Fridheimer: The tomato soup is ISK 3,500. Yes, that comes out to close to US$30. I know that is high for tomato soup. But you can get unlimited tomato soup—which we did because it was US$30 soup, but also because it was amazing. There were several types of bread on the soup buffet line and the bread was equally yummy, a great combination that reminded me of childhood.
The total for four people for our Fridheimer meal was roughly US$450, which included drinks, appetizers, soup, mains, dessert and the stable experience, in which we got to see Icelandic horses up close. There was a demonstration of the different trots the horses do—did you know there is a fourth trot that only Icelandic horses learn? This was a great way to learn about the horses and the Icelandic farm life and culture.
T+L Tip: It can be difficult to get a table at Fridheimer but if you couple it with the stable experience, there are sometimes reservations for that which come with lunch at the restaurant. A slightly more expensive but definitely worth it loophole.
Courtesy of Fridheimer
Courtesy of Fridheimer
The restaurant is in a greenhouse filled with tomato plants. Courtesy of Fridheimer
On-the-ground transport
We rented a car for our entire trip in Iceland: four adults and four large suitcases and smaller bags fit into a smaller car. My sister drove the car and I was the alternate driver. This provided us autonomy to explore Iceland and add in a bit of adventure. You have to be prepared for some extreme weather conditions that can change quickly. The weather can be intense and the winds are strong. Be careful when parking next to other cars because your car doors might fly open and cause damage, so hold on to them as you exit. When it rains it is like a torrential downpour. You have to know your limits with regards to your driving skill and not be overly ambitious. Always have a full tank of gas; stations are fairly spread out around the country so fill up when you see one.
Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
We may earn an affiliate commission when you shop through links on our site.
Written By
Source link : https://www.travelandleisureasia.com/my/destinations/europe/why-an-iceland-trip-will-be-one-of-your-most-revelatory-ever/
Author :
Publish date : 2024-01-31 08:00:00
Copyright for syndicated content belongs to the linked Source.