The statue of Saint Sofia, who is a symbol of wisdom and the protector of the city
Today, Bulgaria faces a demographic crisis. Its population peaked at 9 million in 1989, yet has since decreased to under 6.4 million, as of 2024.
History says that, early on, under the Byzantine Empire, Armenian mercenaries were sent to Bulgaria to protect the borders.
Byzantine Emperor Basil I, the founder of the Macedonian dynasty, was an Armenian from Thrace, an ancient country north of the Aegean Sea.
During the 10th century, the wife of Tsar Peter I was the granddaughter of a Byzantine Emperor who was of Armenian descent. Then, in the 11th century, the mother of Tsar Samuil was the daughter of Armenian King Ashot II. In other words, the Tzar was the grandson of an Armenian king.
After the Hamidian massacres—perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire in the 1890s—and later the 1915 Armenian Genocide, around 20,000 Armenians settled in Bulgaria’s major cities.
Another wave of Armenians to Bulgaria came after the dissolution of the USSR. At the time, a number of Armenians sought a better future in Bulgaria.
However, Bulgaria’s Armenian population has continually decreased due to migration to European countries and the United States. Today, it is estimated that about 25 to 30,000 Armenians live in Bulgaria—residing in the cities of Sofia, Plovdiv, Varna and Burgas.
Here, I should mention that legendary Armenian national heroes—Generals Andranik Ozanian and Garegin Nzhdeh—fought in the the Bulgarian army during the 1912 to 1913 Balkan Wars.
Unfortunately, General Nzhde was later charged with “counterrevolutionary” activities during the period of 1920 to 1921 and was sentenced to death by Soviet authorities. He was executed in December 21, 1955 in Vladimir Central Prison.
However, General Andranik was honored by Bulgarian Authorities and a nearly 20-foot bust was erected in his honor, near the city of Varna, at the center of a square that now bears his name.
The unveiling of the monument was an event dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the Balkan Wars. Hundreds of local residents gathered at the event in Varna to honor the memory of General Andranik Ozanian.
I also read that, in 1937, General Nzhdeh was in Plovdiv, Bulgaria, where he began publishing an Armenian newspaper, called “Razmik.”He also founded the Taron Nationalist Movement, with a group of Armenian intellectuals in Sofia, and published its organ “Taroni Artsiv” or “Eagle of Taron” newspaper.
As I was planning my trip to Bulgaria, I contacted the newly built Armenian church in Sofia. They got back to me quickly and told me that the best time to visit would be on Sunday, August 18 during the feast of the “Blessing of the Grapes.”
Having that date in mind, I planned on arriving in Sofia a few days sooner than the event. I would be flying from Yerevan.
There are only two weekly flights from Yerevan to Sofia, and they arrive at inconvenient times—early in the morning.
I arrived on Wednesday, August 14, at the wee early hours of the morning and took a taxi to my hotel.
I planned on sleeping for a few-hours and, after having breakfast, my newfound friend, Karina, would pick me up from the hotel. We would walk to the office of the Armenian General Benevolent Union to meet Sonia Avakian, the honorary Chairman of the AGBU.
For our meeting, Avakian had also invited a few of the AGBU Board members and had prepared coffee and pastries—a simple yet warm and thoughtful gesture.
The AGBU “Sofia” Chapter was founded in 1992, after the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Around that time, Sevda Sevan, who was a well-known writer, spearheaded the opening of an AGBU.
However, Sevan was asked to become the honorary Ambassador to Armenia and couldn’t continue her role in the project. Instead, the Armenian Coordination Council asked Avakian to step in. In 1995, Sonia was elected as the new President of the AGBU “Sofia” Chapter.
Since 2013, the AGBU “Sofia” Chapter has been housed in a historical building—a four-room apartment, which has ample space to conduct different activities and classes.
The main function of the AGBU in Sofia is to offer a Sunday school, called “HayLer,” to the local youth. There are around 30 kids, aged three and older. They also offer chess, art, dance and choir classes, and Armenian language courses for adults. They also organize Christmas concerts.
The AGBU “Sofia” Chapter also organizes summer camps, at a campsite situated in a beautiful Bansko resort—two hours away from Sofia, in a forest. The camp usually starts by the end of July and runs through the beginning of August.
The organization has also coordinated the participation of youth in the Euro-Armenian sports games. This year, the event was held in Barcelona. Next year, the AGBU “Sofia” Chapter will host the games in Bulgaria from April 18 to 21.
In 2006, the AGBU celebrated its 100th anniversary. For the occasion, Avakian and her fellow Board members decided to organize a signature function to memorialize the AGBU.
Before I continue, I’d like to take a moment to detail how the AGBU was formed in Cairo, Egypt. It started with a collective and deep concern for the tragic fate of Armenians, especially after the Hamidian massacres of 1895.
The Armenian community of Cairo, in early 1900s, gathered around Boghos Nubar, the son of Nubar Pasha, who had a prominent position in Egypt. They urged him to start an Armenian philanthropic organization with a mission of helping Armenians in the homeland and diaspora by improving their economic conditions and educational institutions.
To memorialize the formation of the AGBU, Avakian suggested the “Sofia” Chapter create a chamber orchestra called “AGBU Sofia Chamber Orchestra.”
Maestro Bedros Papazian, who performs with the Sofia Philharmonic orchestra, accepted the invitation to lead the new orchestra in performing the musical works of renowned Armenian composers.
Following the passing of Maestro Papazian, the orchestra is now conducted by a young and talented Maestro, Levon Manukyan.
Since the inception of the orchestra, the concerts, which are usually performed at historical sites, have become very popular. The orchestra conducts six performances per year. So far, they have performed a total of 180 concerts, which are sponsored by the AGBU New York Central Board and the Municipality of Sofia. Attendees are invited to enjoy the concerts free of charge.
The AGBU has other chapters throughout Bulgaria, including in Varna, Burgas and Plovdiv. The chapters receive a small amount of annual funding from the U.S.
I found Avakian to be an active woman with a purpose. She has been involved with a number of Armenian organizations and cultural groups and has diligently served as honorary President of the AGBU “Sofia” Chapter for nearly 30 years.
After spending a day in Sofia, where I visited the AGBU office and I learned about their activities, the following day, Karina and I decided to visit Plovdiv by bus.
Plovdiv is nestled in South Central Bulgaria, about 90 miles southeast of Sofia. For many centuries Plovdiv has carried Armenian history, and I was eager to learn about the story.
Plovdiv is nestled in South Central Bulgaria, about 90 miles southeast of Sofia. For many centuries, Plovdiv has preserved aspects of Armenian history and culture, and I was eager to learn about it all.
We arrived in the city center of Plovdiv at around 10 a.m., where a historical Mosque, built between 1363 and 1364, was nestled. Right next to the mosque, there was an outdoor café, where we sat to enjoy a cup of coffee and pastries. Later, we headed to the Armenian church and school.
Before I continue, I’d like to tell you a bit about Plovdiv, which was named the “European Capital of Culture” in 2019. The city is developed over seven hills, which is why Plovdiv is often referred to as “The City of the Seven Hills.” Evidence of human presence there dates as far back as the Neolithic times.
Plovdiv is considered to be the oldest city in Europe and one of the oldest, still in existence, in the world. It is also a truly lovely place, featuring Roman ruins and Bulgarian Renaissance Era and Art Nouveau architecture.
After enjoying our coffee in the charming square, we started heading to the Surp Kevork Armenian Apostolic Church and school, which was nestled on a hill. We checked with a few locals to make sure we had the correct address then began our challenging trek.
On our way to the church, we kept checking the directions. Most people knew the Armenian church and school and would point towards it. Along the way, in that steep neighborhood, we passed a few small art galleries and a few stores selling souvenirs and nicknacks.
Also, we crossed numerous turn of the century houses, mostly two-story, with their very interesting and unique geometric styles and colorful façades and nuances, which quickly grabbed my attention. It seemed no two houses had the same style. I snapped photo after photo.
Finally, after a half hour walk, we finally reached the church. I was so delighted to have the opportunity to visit the charming and quaint city that displayed so much history.
The church and the school area were enclosed within walls. We climbed the 10 steps to enter the grounds.
Right at the top of the steps, when we turned to our left, I saw a bust of a man on a pedestal. Karina explained that he was a very well-known Bulgarian poet, Peyo Yavorov. One of his most recognizable works is called “Armenians,” where he describes the pitiful and miserable situation of Armenians during the genocide.
Karina also noted that the Peyo Yavorov Basic School No.131 in Yerevan is named after the Bulgarian poet.
Before I proceed, I’d like to say that, on the exterior wall of the entrance of the church, I saw photos and a blurb that detailed the history of a house built in the 19th century by Stepan Hindliyan, who was an extremely affluent Armenian.
Hindliyan was a merchant, whose trade often led him to India. His surname was coined because of his travels to and from there.
Today, his opulent estate is a museum where people can visit the house, which was built in 1834, and marvel at its lavish decorations and furnishings.
Now, there’s so much to discuss about the complexities of the church and the school. I will begin from the moment we stepped into the yard that surrounds the church and the school.
As we entered the grounds, I noticed the church on my left and a large playground on my right. At the end of the playground, the school was housed in a three-story building.
The Surp Kevork Armenian Apostolic Church was originally an Eastern Greek Orthodox Church. In 1767 the church was ceded to Plovdiv’s Armenian Diocese.
The school is named after Victoria and Krikor Tutunjian, an affluent couple who earned their wealth through the manufacturing of cigarettes.
The Armenian School of Plovdiv is the oldest educational institution in Bulgaria, dating back to 1834. The school started as a boy’s school, and later allowed girls to attend.
In those days, the Armenian schools taught Classical Armenian, or “grabar,” however this school, from its inception, taught students colloquial Armenian.
While we were there, a serendipitous encounter took place. A young woman, who we later learned was in charge of the Homenetmen “Plovdiv” Chapter, arrived to return gear from a recent Homenetmen camping trip.
After she arranged all the equipment in the storage, she came to have a chat with us. She said that the Homenetmen “Plodiv” Chapter has been around since 1921.
She mentioned that, in 1976, all ethnic schools in Bulgaria, including this particular Armenian school, were closed for 14 years due to Bolshevik mandates. The schools were reopened in 1990, after the fall of Soviet Union.
She was very excited to have had the opportunity to attend the school and graduate with her fellow Armenian friends.
The Armenian school is currently financed by the government, which enables students to attend free of charge. “Today, there are about 5,000 Armenians residing in Plovdiv,” she shared.
Here I’d like to tell you about two Armenians who were former Mayors of Plovdiv.
Diran Parikyan, who was Mayor from 1971 to 1979, made significant contributions in shaping the modern appearance of the city.
Between 1991 and 1995, Plovdiv’s Mayor was Garabed Tomasyan, who was also a practicing physicia. During his tenure, he introduced numerous modern governance models.
There’s also an Evangelical church in Plovdiv, although I was unable to find any information on it.
After spending a day in Plovdiv, Karina and I took the bus and returned to Sofia.
On Sunday, August 18, I took a taxi from my hotel to the newly built Virgin Mary Armenian Apostolic Church in Sofia to participate in the “Blessing of the Grapes” ceremony.
As I mentioned earlier in my report, representatives of the Virgin Mary Armenian Church had advised that I visit on August 18 when I first reached out as I was planning my trip. So I was very eager and looking forward to witness the church’s “Blessing of the Grapes” ceremony.
As the taxi dropped me off at the church, the first thing that grabbed my attention was its slick and temporary architectural façade, with a number of windows. The style of the church was very appealing to me.
The Virgin Mary Armenian Church was situated next to a playground, which provided a large outdoor space for the church. It was such clever idea to choose a site next to an open and public space.
The construction of the church had begun back in 2006 and was completed by 2022. Agop Karakashyan, the architect, passed away this year at the age of 94.
The church was built thanks to the efforts of the Virgin Mary Armenian Church Board, with significant donations by local Armenians and non-Armenians alike. Funding was also provided by the local authorities—the Sofia Municipality and its government, as well as the Religious Affairs of the Bulgarian Council of Ministers
I arrived at the “Blessing of the Grapes” ceremony a bit early. I watched as parishioners slowly flowed in. By the end of the liturgy, there were nearly 300 attendees.
Following the Devine Liturgy, which ended around noon, the blessed grapes and the sacrificed meat—another item on the list of the event— were distributed. They offered grapes in plastic bags and the chunks of meat with a side of bread in separate bags.
Of all the “Blessing of Grapes” ceremonies I’ve attended, I can say the Virgin Mary Armenian Church’s was the most organized. I was impressed with how smoothly the distribution portion of the event was carried out.
Later, Avakian invited a few of us to an early dinner at a local restaurant. It was a great way to wrap up my stay in Sofia.
Armenian Apostolic Churches in Bulgaria include: the Virgin Mary Armenian Apostolic Church in Sofia; the Surp Kevork Apostolic Church in Plovdiv; the St. Sarkis Armenian Apostolic Church in Varna; and the Holy Cross Armenian Church in Burgas, built in 1673.
Now, let’s turn to Armenian newspapers in Bulgaria. There are three Armenian publications in Bulgaria: “Armentsi,” which is issued in Burgas every fortnight with a circulation of 3,500; the weekly “Vahan,” issued in Plovdiv with a circulation of 1,000; and the weekly “Erevan,” issued in Sofia. Also, the AGBU publishes a monthly bulletin, called “Parekordzagani Tsayn.”
Among the notable Bulgarian-Armenians is Michael Arlen, who was born on November 16,1895 in Bulgraria. His family later moved to England, where he became a renowned author in the 1920s. He wrote “Passage to Ararat,” which most Armenians have read, after moving to the U.S.
This concludes my very long report of Armenians in Bulgaria.
Catherine Yesayan is a regular contributor to Asbarez, with her columns appearing under the “Community Links” heading. She can be reached at cyesayan@gmail.com.
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Publish date : 2024-10-15 12:52:00
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