The Mezcaleria at KOL with its earthy tones and textures.
KOL
In the heart of London, KOL restaurant is a standout for Mexican cuisine and the UK’s leading advocate for Mezcal, the traditional agave distillate gaining recognition from drinks enthusiasts around the world. With a Michelin star and pushing for a second, KOL is clearly part of the city’s fine dining scene. What sets it apart, beyond a focus on elevating authentic Mexican dishes using British ingredients, is its promotion of Mezcal and its presence at the forefront of the experience.
The vision behind KOL, which features a restaurant at ground level and an intimate Mezcaleria beneath, comes from chef Santiago Lastra, a Mexican national with international training. Initially passionate about math and problem-solving, he unexpectedly found his professional calling through a simple crab dip recipe on a cracker packet. From there, he pursued formal training at Arte Culinario Coronado and later a Master’s degree at the Basque Culinary Centre. Before opening KOL, Lastra worked at Mugaritz, and collaborated on Noma’s Mexico residency, which shaped his approach to connecting heritage with contemporary techniques.
KOL restaurant
KOL
Lastra chose London for its diverse demographic and open-mindedness. As he puts it, “I wanted it to be multicultural, with open-minded people who like Mexican cuisine and have already been exposed to Mexican culture. London ticked all those boxes.” He also favoured being close to Europe, where he had been living for many years. For Lastra, the eclectic audience and the city’s reputation as a global culinary hub made it the ideal setting. “London is the capital of the world, and what I love the most about it is the openness that Londoners have to trying new flavors,” he explains.
So where does mezcal fit in? This historic spirit, produced by distilling the extract of roasted and pressed agave hearts, is a core part of KOL’s menu and identity. Its presence is felt throughout the restaurant, from the bar, where it features heavily in cocktails before and after dinner, to the kitchen where it finds its way into all sorts of dishes. Unlike Tequila, mezcal has a broader flavor profile, influenced initially by the type of agave and the region it’s grown, and subsequently, the production methods used. This variety, which can even include the influence of roasted chickens, makes it ideal for pairing with the complex flavors in Mexican cuisine – particularly when it comes to heat and spice.
Santiago Lastra bringing mezcal and Mexican cuisine to London.
Maureen Evans / KOL
For Lastra, Mezcal is more than just a drink. It is a perfect fit for KOL’s ethos. “Mezcal is super important for us, because it’s such a healthy spirit,” he says. While there are industrial versions on the market, mezcal still has a reputation as being the authentic distillate of the people. Free from chemicals and additives, it is produced in small batches, and shared amongst friends and families in small communities. The spirit aligns with KOL’s focus on using organic, locally sourced ingredients. Lastra emphasises that, “our ethos is to use wild and natural ingredients, like our biodynamic, chemical-free wines, and use of chemical-free food. Mezcal makes a lot of sense for us in that regard.”
The underlying claim is that drinking authentic mezcal, which can be close to 50% abv, can still be a thoughtful and balanced drinking experience. Its rich flavors encourage slower, more conscious consumption, aligning with a lifestyle that values quality over quantity. Additionally, mezcal’s traditional roots and connection to community emphasises sustainability, and by implication, denotes ethical and environmentally friendly practices. Ximena Perdigon, head barista at the Mezcaleria, articulates the integration of that provoked cultural contemplation and the need to keep it fun, when she points out, “mezcal is to be drunk with little kisses.”
Perdigon’s experiences serving mezcal in the UK have been fascinating. “Mezcal culture here is still growing. If it’s known at all, most people think of it as a smoky tequila, and tend to treat it like a shot, rather than something to be sipped and appreciated for its complexity.” To counter those attitudes, KOL plays on its ability to source limited batches from rare agave. “This is definitely a big draw. Customers really value the opportunity to try something unique and scarce, which enhances the perception of mezcal as an artisanal and authentic spirit” she adds.
The new range of house Mezcals from KOL
KOL
The mezcal list at KOL is curated to showcase the spirit’s diversity, with selections ranging from small, family-owned producers to brands aiming to work sustainably and ethically in Mexico’s nine mezcal producing regions. Lastra and his team were sourcing mezcal from small-scale producers who favoured ‘artisanal’ production techniques, such as roasting agave in earthen pits and fermenting it in open-air vats.
Supporting these producers is essential and has inspired KOL to release their own range in partnership with the Sin Guano project. Produced from different agave, some of which are extremely rare and need a decade before being ready to harvest, the house portfolio is available individually or as part of a tasting flight. It includes agave such as Coyote, Barril Espadín, Cuishe and Tepextate.
According to the team, the most popular agave is Espadín. It is the most accessible and versatile for those starting to explore mezcal for the first time. However, enquiries for lesser known varieties such as Tobalá and Salmiana are increasing. In the Mezcaleria, Perdigon notes that, just like with wine, the broad variety of flavors provokes conversation. “Ultimately this is a chance to change what people think about mezcal. We recommend profiles we think will align with their palates or previous experiences.” For those not ready to drink it neat, there is cocktail menu to tackle.
One of KOL’s mezcal margheritas from the mezcaleria.
KOL
Mezcal isn’t just confined to the drinks menu. Back in the restaurant Lastra incorporates it in subtle ways, whether as a marinade for proteins, a finishing touch in sauces, or as part of creative pairings. One of KOL’s standout dishes is a mezcal-cured salmon, where the spirit’s distinct profile enhances the rich texture of the fish. Another favorite is a dessert that balances sweetness with a slight bitterness, using Mezcal to add complexity without overpowering.
This approach is about more than adding flavor, it is a way of connecting the food and drink holistically with Mexico and its traditions. It makes mezcal an integral part of the dining experience rather than just an afterthought. Of course, operating at Michelin stared level means KOL can turn the volume on mezcal up and down with ease. If it’s of no interest, it fades skilfully to background decoration.
Over the last two decades, mezcal’s commercial success internationally has been driven by a broader consumer interest in authenticity and provenance. As more people seek out spirits of integrity, that reflect their origins and production methods, mezcal’s artisanal heritage and cultural symbolism will continue to strike a chord. At KOL, Lastra is challenging perceptions of Mexican cuisine and its place in fine dining. Leveraging mezcal and its associated traditions enriches that narrative.
While Londoners are indeed open minded, they need substance behind the thematics. There is no risk of that here though. Michelin-starred, climbing from 23rd to 17th in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and entering its 5th year, KOL has become the most important stage for mezcal in Europe.
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Publish date : 2024-10-20 02:58:00
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