This European capital is a modern fairytale

This European capital is a modern fairytale

Codex Gigas, thought to be the world’s largest medieval illuminated manuscript, on display in the National Library.Credit: Alamy

The Codex Gigas (giant book) is an illustrated, handwritten bible on display in the National Library of Sweden in the Humlegarden park. At 92 centimetres long, 50 centimetres wide and 22 deep, it’s the world’s largest known medieval manuscript. Said to be the labour of 20 or 30 years work for just one monk, its big claim to fame is the unexpected and vibrant illustration of the devil on one of its huge pages. Lots of myths and legends surround the book, but my favourite is how it was spared destruction from a fire by being lobbed out of a window by a vicar, where all 74.8 kilograms of it landed on a bystander. See kb.se

More food for thought

If you’re going to do the Scandi thing, why not go the whole hog at Aifur, a subterranean Viking-themed restaurant-cum-tavern serving a modern take on medieval fare? Candle-lit with high ceilings and wooden benches, “Tore Hjort’s hunting prey with raw lingonberries” or “The Raven God’s Delight” can all be washed down with a bucket or two of mead. You might catch a song or two played by musicians on ancient instruments. See aifur.se

Old (un)Faithful

Old town square, Stockholm.Credit: iStock

Anyone who visits Stockholm will eventually make their way, quite rightly, to Gamla Stan (the old town). It’s a charming warren of streets full of shops, cafes and restaurants. Very few, however, will notice the carving at 44 Skeppsbron Street. (You may want to cover the kids’ eyes for this next bit). It was once the home of Carl Smitt, whose face you can see on the wall above the door. He had it placed there after he found out his wife had cheated on him. To get even, he had a replica of her lady parts placed beneath his own angry face. Something to tell the grandkids.

Colour by numbers

Want to do your bit to light up the city’s skyline? Then head over to the Telefonplan metro station and seek out the 20-storey tower. Since 2016, anyone with a smartphone can control the colour of the lights in the upper windows using the Colour By Numbers app (available on Android and Apple). You can even choose a floor and create your own colour using a mixable RGB interface. Go wild, I dare you.

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One more thing

The Spritmuseum, tucked away between the ABBA and Vasa museums, is dedicated to Swedish drinking culture. It’s also the permanent home to the Absolut Art Collection. This year there is an exhibition about Sweden’s prohibition era, alongside its regular look at Sweden’s “bittersweet” and “complicated” relationship with alcohol. A sobering experience – until you get to the Tasting Trays of various vodkas, beers and spirits. There is a non-alcohol Tasting Tray, should that float your boat. See spritmuseum.se

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Publish date : 2024-10-23 11:02:00

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