The Republic of San Marino is the world’s fifth smallest country, oldest sovereign state, and oldest republic founded in AD301. It has a population of 33,660, which makes it smaller than the likes of Bicester, Haywards Heath, and Melton Mowbray. To put it another way, the republic of San Marino has a population half the size of Bury St Edmunds.
Houses, petrol stations, beauticians and car dealerships spiral up Monte Titano, where the capital’s old town – centro storico di San Marino – sprawls at the peak. Mopeds and the occasional Lycra-clad cyclist go up, while every 30 minutes a white and blue shuttle bus (shaped like a steam train) comes down tooting its horn. It’s a gimmick but a charmingly practical one – the mountain is a steep walk and its peak some 739m above sea level.
The country, and its old town, is friendly and peaceful. But it’s also a tax haven with some of the most relaxed gun laws in western Europe. Walking around the tourist areas, all within the old fortress walls, you’ll see many shops selling Glock 17s, crossbows, and swords. That said, the people here are low-key and unassuming. They won’t shout at you for ordering tiramisu for breakfast, but they will ask if you are sure you know what you’re asking for.
However, something loud and booming is growing in San Marino, too.
The Brigata, full name Brigata Mai 1 Gioia, or the “Never Any Joy Brigade” are some of the purest football fans you’ll ever meet. Hardly any of them are actually from San Marino. In fact, just three Sammarinese are here for the game. Instead, the Brigata is composed of football fans from all over the world. There are people like Alan, a teacher who has flown here from Taunton for tonight’s game. Or Josef, from Germany, who is retired and has been coming to almost every home match for more than a decade. “It’s just what I do,” he says matter-of-factly, from beneath a grey walrus moustache.
Of the 30-odd Brigata in the group chat for this game, there are people from England, France, Germany, Hungary, and Italy. Invariably, they have the same story: they love football and scrolled through the rankings to find a team in Europe at the very bottom. Or they live in Emilia-Romagna or Tuscany and caught wind of some plucky team in the mountains who had never won a game.
There’s a growing online following, too. On X, @SanMarino_FA, which is run by an anonymous fan who has never been to a San Marino game, has amassed over 175,000 followers. A digital Brigata, if you will. The official account, meanwhile, is run by Daniele and Tristan, a 17-year-old from Austria who, like the others, took a liking to the little team that never won. Online is where I first noticed them, too, when a goal against Denmark last October sent a flurry of retweets in my direction. @SanMarino_FA’s endearing bio? “Currently #210 on the #FIFA Ranking.”
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Publish date : 2024-10-10 09:05:00
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