“Penelope Cruz and Javier Bardem recently visited the Algarve,” textile artist Vanessa Barragao’s studio assistant said during my visit. She was one of many who mentioned the Hollywood elite flocking to this region with 300 days of sunshine a year, a coast that forms a jagged smile along the Atlantic, and a burgeoning wine scene. A much less elite Angeleno, I thought to myself, had I traveled nearly 6,000 miles to discover the “California of Europe”?
I didn’t mind — I love California. And after spending 10 days in Portugal’s southernmost region with my boyfriend, it was obvious that California and the Algarve have both similarities and striking differences.
One common thread is that the Algarve has more Michelin-starred restaurants than all other areas of Portugal combined (and California has more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other U.S. state). We tasted local cuisine over a three-hour meal at Vista, a restaurant helmed by chef João Oliveira.
Within minutes, I shed tears of joy. From the first bite (a molecular explosion of green apple, wasabi, and fennel) to dessert (a miniature citrus tree with an orange sphere encased in a ganache-covered shell and filled with orange chocolate mousse), Oliveira and his staff performed an opera of flavor.
But zoom out, and the local Algarve cuisine splits with California. The Algarve is inflected with a North African influence. After all, the area spent centuries under Moorish rule. Pepper, curry, and coriander spice up the menus, and a traditional dish called cataplana is the Algarve’s answer to tagine.
Similarly to California, the Algarve offers a lovely mix of beaches, countryside, and city life, but it looks a bit different. For instance, in the fisherman’s village of Olhão, we climbed the bell tower of the Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário for a spectacular view over a zigzagging blanket of white Cubist buildings that conjured comparisons to towns like Morocco’s Tetouan and Spain’s Cadaqués.
Later, we spent a few days in Vila Real de Santo António, the border town between Portugal and Spain on the right bank of the Guadiana River. This city was planned during Portugal’s “Age of Enlightenment” and features neoclassical buildings and symmetrical, Pombaline blocks (akin to Lisbon). Nothing in California compares.
Stacy Suaya
Then, in the capital city of Faro, the comparisons to California returned. Here, you might notice nods to William Krisel’s Palm Springs or John Lautner’s Hollywood, as it’s a hotbed of modernist buildings designed for a tropical climate.
Stacy Suaya
Michael Stock, the co-owner of Quinta Dos Vales vineyard, explained that Californians are flocking to the Algarve for a similar laid-back lifestyle with a lower cost of living and no divisive politics. He added that there’s a bevy of international schools, almost everyone speaks English, and taxes are low. Strolling with him among his vines, with the Monchique Mountains as our backdrop, the view and landscape did slightly recall Napa or Sonoma.
Stacy Suaya
And when we later did a tasting at Morgado do Quintão, a historic estate with a 2,000-year-old olive tree, it was clear, too, that the Algarve’s wine scene might follow in Northern California’s footsteps. Quintão’s approach is to reclaim their roots: low intervention, biological practices, and use of the indigenous grapes (called crato, negra mole, and castelão). They’re also one of the first vineyards in the Algarve to export to the U.S. and have their wines in three-star Michelin restaurants worldwide.
The coast here also rivals that of the Golden State. The Algarve’s beaches have earned 87 Blue Flags — one of Europe’s highest concentrations. It is said that the sandier, quieter beaches are on the eastern side of the Algarve, with warmer water and calmer winds.
Stacy Suaya
I walked the east side’s Praia de Santo António and experienced a pristine panorama of shimmering ocean and untouched golden sand. Cliff and cove lovers should be aware of the western side, though, which has echoes of Malibu, and, at times, San Luis Obispo.
After returning to L.A. and reflecting on this trip, I thought of the Mark Twain quote: “All scenery in California requires distance to give it its highest charm.” The same could be said of the Algarve. Their version of sun, sea, and Michelin stars may approximate California in certain ways, but it definitely has its own special vibe, too.
Best Hotels and Resorts
Casa Modesta
Overlooking the Ria Formosa lagoon in Olhão, this nine-room boutique hotel offers a design-oriented place to sync with nature’s pace. It’s also a former fisherman’s home, lovingly restored by his architect granddaughter and run by her brother.
Bela Vista Hotel & Spa
Stacy Suaya
This 19th-century, Moorish-style family home-turned-hotel in the Algarve city Portimão provides gated privacy within a walkable neighborhood on one side and direct beach access on the other. Breakfast on the panoramic terrace is a must.
Epic Sana Resort, Algarve
Stay at a five-star luxury resort and spa in Albufeira overlooking the east end of Falésia Beach, named the best in the world in Tripadvisor’s 2024 Travelers’ Choice Awards. Nestled in a lush pine forest, this hotel provides gorgeous views of the landscape and direct access to the award-winning beach.
Palmares Beach House Hotel
With an architecture award under its belt, this stunning adults-only boutique resort in Lagos has 18 rooms and two suites that overlook the Portuguese sea and golf course for dreamy views. The beachfront property’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Al Sud, is situated with the Bay of Lagos to the right and Alvor Estuary on the left, providing an incredible setting to enjoy inventive seasonal dishes. (You’ll need to make a reservation to dine here.)
3HB Faro
Just 15 minutes from Faro’s international airport in a historic part of town is the first five-star hotel in the region’s capital city. With two restaurants, expansive wellness and spa offerings, a 24-hour gym, and a rooftop infinity pool, you’ll find everything you need in this luxurious, relaxing setting.
Best Things to Do
Benagil Sea Cave
Accessible by boat, kayak, or stand-up paddle board, this spot resembles nature’s cathedral, with an open-air oculus framing the blue sky.
Modernist Architecture Walking Tour
Faro’s impressive collection of modernist and art deco buildings are discoverable with a guide created by the owners of the Modernist Hotel. (There’s an in-room copy for hotel guests’ use.)
Morgado do Quintão
Stacy Suaya
Come to the dreamy vineyard and farmstay for the wine tasting and a romantic afternoon, leave with the maximum amount of bottles that will fit into your checked baggage.
Praia da Falésia
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In the central region of the Algarve, you’ll find a three-mile stretch of beach that’s been coined the “best in the world” thanks to its dramatic cliffside setting. The famous beach, located between the towns of Albufeira and Vilamoura, is easy to get to by car or public transit, but there are also two hotels atop the cliffs you can stay at: Epic Sana Resort and Pine Cliffs (which is part of Mariott’s Luxury Collection).
Best Shopping
Kozii
This Tavira boutique sells beautiful, eco-conscious clothing and jewelry inspired by the techniques, people, and landscapes of Jaipur, India.
Vanessa Barragão
Stacy Suaya
A young textile artist weaves giant tapestries that reflect on climate change, especially its impact on oceans. (By appointment only.)
Loulé Design Lab
Local artisans make and sell unique clothing, jewelry, and crafts in this community space. The Lab also hosts discussions and workshops.
Nightlife
Lagos
Lagos is a popular destination in Portugal, famous for its nightlife scene in the summer months and parties lasting into the early morning hours. No matter your vibe, there’s a spot to suit it, from beach clubs and dive bars to clubs and live music venues. A lot of bustling spots are within walking distance from each other, like along Rua 25 de Abril Lagos.
Albufeira
During the day, most of the action in Albufeira is at the beach. By night, the party migrates to Old Town, near Fisherman’s Beach. You’ll find options ranging from bistros and jazz clubs to cocktail bars and wine cellars.
Best Restaurants
Los Locos
Only open for dinner, a tiny, candlelit restaurant hidden in a cobblestone alley offers surprising flavor combinations and techniques. Trip: Try the salad with smoked greens.
Sushi Pearl
This upscale sushi spot in Faro serves just-caught local fish with Portuguese flourishes, catering its omakase creations to the season. You can make a reservation for two nightly seatings, 7:15 p.m. and 9:30 p.m., at the 10-seat sushi bar.
Vista
Stacy Suaya
Expect an unparalleled, Michelin-starred dining experience focused on seafood and vegetables. Keep in mind, however, this isn’t the best place to bring children.
Grand House
Stacy Suaya
A Belle Epoque-style bar where you can say your favorite spirit and wind up with a tailor-made, one-of-a-kind cocktail, this historic restaurant is just across the river from Spain.
Chá Chá Chá
A British food writer opened this charming, laidback restaurant. The menu, revolving around the morning’s catches, changes daily.
Best Time to Visit
June to September is high season for the Algarve beaches. If you want to travel here with smaller crowds, there are two shoulder seasons from September to November and April to June, with low season happening from December to April, according to a local expert.
How to Get There
The only airport for the region is Faro Airport (FAO), and the only nonstop flight offered from the U.S. is by United Airlines through Newark Airport. You can take a connecting flight, however, through many European cities.
If you’re traveling to the Algarve from another city in Portugal, you can take a train, car, bus, or plane. A train ride from Lisbon, for example, will take three to four hours.
Places to Visit
Faro
Faro is the capital of the Algarve region and where the only airport is located, so you may already be flying into the region here. Faro is popular for its plentiful beaches, historical landmarks, and restaurants and bars.
Lagos
Famous for its nightlife, Lagos is one of the most visited cities in the Algarve region. Tourists also love the unique rock formations dotting the scenic beaches and the Old Town’s cobbled streets lined with whitewashed buildings within the 16th-century city walls.
Sagres
Also full of gorgeous beaches, Sagres is a bit more remote and less trafficked than some of its Algarve neighbors. The small village is known for its ideal surf conditions, and there are several surf camps that offer lessons.
Albufeira
This old fishing city is known for its golden-sanded beaches with clear water, ranging from tranquil spots, like São Rafael Beach, for a picturesque respite to more lively destinations, like Fisherman’s Beach (Praia dos Pescadores), steps from shops and cafes. Albufeira is also a short drive to the famously beautiful Falésia beach.
How to Get Around
Renting a car can give you a lot of flexibility, and there’s free parking a lot of places. There are also public transportation options, including shuttles from the city to different beaches.
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Publish date : 2024-10-17 07:00:00
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