a retro reverie on the Italian Riviera

a retro reverie on the Italian Riviera

To stay at Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino is to go back in time. Not to the 16th century, when the gelato-hued edifice was first constructed as a hillside Benedictine monastery, but to Portofino’s 1950s heyday, when the one-time fishing village was gilded in dolce vita glamour. Here, black-and-white photographs of Hollywood stars don the walls; bow-tied bar staff stir up negronis with local gin; Liz Taylor’s favourite pasta is still on the menu (Richard Burton proposed to her here, after all); and service is all-Italian — with familial warmth and Ligurian charm.

Overall score 9/10

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Rooms and suites

Score 9/10
Between seasons, Splendido is undergoing a floor-by-floor renovation led by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. When complete in 2025, there will be just 50 keys (reduced from 70). Much of the hotel is already back in action, including two pastel-pretty signature suites, the Baronessa Suite, just off the pool, and La Dolce Vita Suite with a private garden. Still-spacious entry-level rooms have garden views, while more premium picks are worth the splurge for the balconies, sea vistas, and regional touches, like hand-painted ceramics from the seaside town of Albisola or terrazzo-like graniglia alla Genovese floors. All have marble bathrooms scented with full-size Acqua di Parma toiletries and fluffed Frette towels. Bonus points for the chinoiserie-style Ginori 1735 Oriente Italiano espresso cups in the minibar and the throwback safes hidden behind paintings.

Food and drink

Score 9/10
Glowing with hanging lanterns and overlooking the sun-dappled waves, the open-air La Terrazza is Spendido’s main restaurant, dishing up hyper-local Ligurian classics like still-warm focaccia Genovese for breakfast (as part of a buffet that would please even the most overindulged of Roman emperors); impossibly sweet Santa Margherita Ligure prawns for lunch; and Michelin-worthy fine dining for dinner. The Trofie di Recco — little twirls of pasta with pesto made from basil plucked from nearby Prà — will have you smooching your fingers in a chef’s kiss. La Terrazza also doubles as the hotel’s cocktail bar, where long-time resident pianist Vladi tickles the ivories under the moon’s glow long into the night. Located right off the parasol-lined saltwater pool, Splendido Grill is the spot for more casual lunches and dinners of Neapolitan-style pizzas with blistering crusts and charred Piedmontese beef off the Josper grill. Guests are also welcome to dine at Splendio’s harbour-side sister property, Splendido Mare, at restaurant DaV Mare where the tomato paccheri alla Vittorio is the signature (and social-media-favourite) dish. For dessert, don’t miss the sundae-like paciugo next door at the Gelateria San Giorgio.

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What else is there?

Score 10/10
A pop-up alfresco Dior spa made up of two cabanas dressed in the brand’s toile de jouy print is hidden in the terraced gardens. The spa will become a permanent fixture on the hotel’s second floor in 2025. In addition to a complimentary shuttle whizzing guests right up to Portofino’s pedestrian-only main Piazzetta every 20 minutes, Splendido also has a Louis Vuitton-branded Fiat Cinquecento for Piazzetta drop-offs and a private Chris-Craft Corsair 36 motorboat for spins along the coastline. The hotel also offers activities like cooking classes and a kids’ club for the bambini. Up your game with in-room Technogym kits, a 24-hour gym and a hilltop tennis court (plus an in-house tennis pro).Dress the part for a visit to the chic boutique, hawking silky kaftans and vintage-inspired sunnies.

Where is it?

Score 9/10
Hidden from the paps, Splendido is snuggled into the green hills above Portofino, a 20-minute drive to Portofino’s main Piazzetta. Because of the hotel’s positioning, guests have great views over the boat-filled Baia Cannone cove and the Castello Brown (but not Portofino’s main Piazzetta). With the shuttle and plentiful taxis, a car is largely unnecessary in Portofino, though it might be helpful for exploring neighbouring beaches and villages. The hotel also works closely with the chichi beach club Bagni Fiore in nearby Paraggi. Splendido closes seasonally between November and May.

Price B&B doubles from £2,056
Restaurant mains from £31
Family-friendly Y
Accessible Y

Nicole Trilivas was a guest of Splendido (belmond.com)

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Publish date : 2024-10-30 15:19:00

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