There was a time when snobbier skiers might have looked down on the mountain resorts of Eastern Europe. They were seen as cheap, cheerful and perhaps a little sub-standard. But the old stereotypes, of dining in Soviet-style canteens before risking your life on a rickety old drag lift, haven’t applied for years. These days, the vast majority of Eastern European ski resorts have the same impeccably groomed pistes and artificial snow-making equipment that you’d expect to find in the Alps, as well as lift systems that are considerably newer and faster than many of those found in the US.
More improvements are being made all the time. This winter, the resort of Jahorina in Bosnia will be inaugurating a new lift and two new slopes. There are new lifts opening in Poland, Bulgaria, Slovakia and Slovenia too, while Montenegro is developing its ski infrastructure at breakneck speed — there are no fewer than four new resort bases, with dozens of lifts, scheduled to be built around Mount Bjelasica in coming years.
The quality of these world-class facilities is evidenced by the calibre of the events now staged in Eastern Europe. Jasna (Slovakia), Kranjska Gora (Slovenia) and Bansko (Bulgaria) are regular stops on the World Cup slalom circuit. Two seasons ago, the Freestyle Ski and Snowboarding World Championships took place in Bakuriani, Georgia. And last winter, the country hosted a leg of the world’s premiere powder skiing competition, the Freeride World Tour. The event was deemed such a success it will be returning for the next three years.
To those who enjoy venturing off piste, Eastern Europe’s more sparsely populated mountain ranges have long been seen as an untapped gold mine. In recent years, cat-skiing and heli-skiing operations have sprung up everywhere in Eastern Europe and its fringes, from North Macedonia to Turkey, offering Canadian-style backcountry experiences in truly remote locations, usually for a fraction of the price.
The alpine lakes at Zelenci Nature Reserve help make up the picturesque scenery of Kranjska Gora.
Photography by Fotomax, Getty Images
For all this development, some things about skiing in Eastern Europe remain unchanged. Firstly, while it’s impossible to generalise about cuisines across such a vast region, you’re certain to find welcome alternatives to Alpine classics like tartiflette (potatoes baked with cheese, bacon, cream and onions) and fondue. Exploring each country’s distinct mountain culture is a huge part of the appeal.
Secondly, Eastern European resorts tend to be smaller, with fewer crowds and shorter queues than those in France, Austria or Switzerland. And last, but by no means least, everything — from lift passes to transfers to on-hill dining — is usually less expensive. Often much less expensive. In fact, in these cost-of-living conscious times, the appeal of a skiing holiday in Eastern Europe has arguably never been stronger. And there are plenty of choices to spark your winter wanderlust.
1. Lynx Freeride, Kosovo
Best for powder-hounds
The Accursed Mountains, which form the border between Kosovo, Albania and Montenegro, benefit from big storms rolling in off the Adriatic and can get up to 49ft of snow a season — as much as the renowned Japanese resort of Niseko. Destination specialist, Lynx Freeride offers cat-skiing, ferrying skiers up in modified piste bashers, in a vast zone stretching over several valleys beneath the 8,714ft-high Mount Gjeravica. Safety standards are impeccable, and fresh tracks are all but guaranteed.
Lynx Freeride offers a seven-night package including accommodation, guiding and snowcat time from 2,800 (£2,350 per person), full board.
2. Kranjska Gora, Slovenia
Best for families
Slovenia’s mountainous landscapes and Austro-Hungarian architecture often draw comparisons to Austria, but the euros in your pocket go further here. Kranjska Gora is one of the country’s best known ski resorts, and what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in terms of accessibility. The nursery slopes are walking distance from most hotels, the runs further up offer a nice mix of intermediate reds and blues, and there’s plenty of off-hill activities to keep kids occupied in the compact village, from an ice rink to torch-lit sledging.
Crystal Ski offers a seven-night package including flights from London, coach transfers and accommodation from £788 per person, B&B.
Cloudbase, a backcountry hut near Mestia, Georgia, sits 2300 meters above sea level.
Photograph by Nick Phaliani
Slovenia’s mountainous landscapes draw comparisons to Austria, but at a much more affordable price.
Photograph by Mitja R, Getty Images
3. Jahorina, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Best for beginners
With 32 miles of pistes, Jahorina has more than enough to keep any first-timers occupied for a week. But beginners don’t always want to spend all day, every day on the tricky business of learning to ski — and this is where Jahorina really comes into its own. The slopes are just a 50-minute drive from downtown Sarajevo, which has bounced back from the war-torn 1990s to become one of the most exciting city break destinations in Europe. Its range of food, fascinating history and lively nightlife make downtime a delight.
Heidi offers a week-long package including flights from London, airport transfers and four-star accommodation from £978 per person, half board.
4. Bansko, Bulgaria
Best for après-lovers
Set high in the Pirin Mountains in southwest Bulgaria, Bansko boasts a lot of terrain above 5,250ft, meaning it rarely struggles for natural snow. The slopes offer plenty for all ability levels, and the town, although not as cheap as it once was, is still unrivalled for wallet-friendly nights out. The old town centre is packed with mehanas (traditional taverns), while the new town has enough gaudy clubs to keep you dancing into the small hours.
Crystal Ski offers week-long packages, including flights from London, coach transfers and accommodation, from £516 per person.
5. Mestia, Georgia
Best for ski tourers
On Europe’s eastern fringes, Georgia and its Caucasus mountains have always been blessed with incredible skiing terrain. In recent years, it’s invested heavily in its infrastructure too. There are now two ski resorts within easy reach of the ancient mountain town of Mestia, both equipped with modern lifts. But because of its sheer scale, the surrounding Svaneti region is still best explored on touring skis. The peaks around here are higher than anything in the Alps, and the storms whipped up over the Black Sea to the west provide plenty of soft, powdery snow.
Georgia Insight’s 10-day Svaneti Ski Tour package with Nick Phaliani, an FMGA-certified guide, starts from €2,058 (£1,730) per person, full board, including transfers.
Published in the Winter Sports 24/25 guide, available with the December 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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Publish date : 2024-11-23 16:00:00
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