From its medieval and baroque Upper Town to the Lower Town filled with Habsburg and art nouveau architecture, the city of Zagreb, tucked into Croatia’s northwest corner, is appealing all year round. At Christmas, however, the handsome capital really sparkles. Advent Zagreb, which takes place from late November to 7 January, fills squares, parks, pedestrianised streets and even a tunnel with stalls, pop-up bars and spectacular light installations. From low-key beginnings in 2010, Advent has grown into one of Zagreb’s biggest attractions. Here’s how to make the most of the city and its festivities this Christmas.
Zagreb’s streets are lit up and lavishly decorated during Advent.
Photograph by M. Tomaš, Zagreb Tourist Board
1. Stroll beautifully lit streets
Advent kicks off in the city’s main square, Ban Jelačić, where the season’s first candle is lit. The square’s art nouveau buildings are adorned with Christmas lights and decorations, while the wider area, including neighbouring Europe Square, is packed with wooden market stalls and twinkling lights. Explore further festivities in the trio of parks just a few minutes’ walk away. First, soak up the atmosphere at Zrinjevac Park, where thousands of dazzling lights cover the trees and bandstand. Afterwards, head to King Tomislav Square to glide around the outdoor ice-skating rink under glistening illuminations. For an immersive experience, detour through the Grič Tunnel in downtown Zagreb. Built in 1943 and used as a bomb shelter during the Second World War and Croatian War of Independence, it’s now a pedestrian thoroughfare and event space. For Advent, the tunnel displays an extraordinary light show, with a different theme each year.
2. Indulge in classic Croatian cuisine
Whatever time of year you visit, don’t miss Zagreb’s daily morning market, Dolac. Just a minute’s walk north of Ban Jelačić Square, its indoor and outdoor stalls showcase superb local produce. There are plenty more food markets to explore during Advent, too — fill up on kobasice (grilled smoked sausages), sarma (cabbage rolls) or giant chunks of slow-cooked ham hock. For something lighter, look out for the Dalmatian flatbread soparnik, filled with garlic, chard and olive oil. Follow the savoury with the sweet at Strossmayer Square’s Advent market Fuliranje (‘fooling around’). Try fritule (fried doughnut balls) dipped in chocolate sauce, and finish with a shot of rakija — a brandy made with anything from plums, grapes and pears to walnuts, honey and herbs.
Come early evening, feel the festive buzz among the bars and restaurants of Tkalčićeva Street, which extends from the city centre to the Upper Town, and along the up-and-coming Martićeva Street in the Lower Town. Advent also spills into the pedestrianised Bogovićeva, where food stalls squeeze between bar and restaurant terraces. At the street’s western end is Peter Preradović Square, known locally as Cvjetni Trg (Flower Square), a favourite place for Zagrebians seeking their daily caffeine fix. Or hop on a tram — look out for the one covered in Christmas decorations and driven by Santa — and head east to Maksimir Park, Zagreb’s oldest. You’ll feel the Christmas cheer here, too, amid wooden chalets and pop-up bars.
Mulled wine is widely available to warm the cold winter nights during Advent Zagreb.
Photograph by The Westin Zagreb
Sarma, a Croatian dish of meat and rice wrapped in cabbage, is a festive season staple.
Photograph by Darko Visak, Zagreb Tourist Board
3. Visit the city’s cultural hotspots
Among the pretty medieval and baroque buildings of the Upper Town you’ll find the Museum of Broken Relationships, whose poignant and quirky displays reveal stories of lost love. During Advent, the museum hosts creative workshops such as Christmas decoration-making and cookie-decorating. In the north of the Upper Town, Zagreb City Museum — once a 17th-century convent — offers one of the most enjoyable ways to get a handle on the city’s fascinating history. It also presents a live nativity scene over the Christmas season.
Back in the Lower Town, the magnificent neo-baroque Croatian National Theatre provides a rich cultural programme of opera, ballet, drama and classical music. It also gets into the Christmas spirit with festive musical offerings and twinkling lights. Many more concerts and musical performances are held across the city during Advent, so keep an eye out as you wander.
4. Shop for last-minute Christmas gifts
Food and drink are front and centre during Advent, but there are plenty of stalls where you can buy gifts too. Browse the markets for Christmas decorations, knickknacks, trinkets and edible treats, or head to Zagreb’s main shopping street, Ilica, for Croatian and international retailers, including the centuries-old Nama department store. Look for Croatian designs among the shops along Pavla Radića, leading into the Upper Town, or head west to Britanski Trg (British Square) for the Sunday bric-a-brac market.
Spend hours perusing the many market stalls around the city, which offer a range of festive gifts and treats.
Photograph by M. Mehulić, Zagreb Tourist Board
5. Take in the festivities from above
The Upper Town is a scenic walk from Ban Jelačić Square, but it’s more fun to take the short and sweet funicular. In just 64 seconds, it chugs up the hill to Strossmayer Promenade, revealing wonderful views of the city. At the top is the medieval Lotrščak Tower, which you can climb for an even greater vantage point. If you’re there at midday, be prepared for the daily cannon blast. And if you’re there in the evening, delight in the glow of glittering Christmas lights. Keep an eye out for the grand Christmas tree that stands outside St Mark’s Church — its colourful tiled roof is one of Zagreb’s most emblematic sights.
Plan your trip
Direct flights to Zagreb are available from London and Manchester. Travellers can choose from a broad range of accommodation, including Maistra City Vibes’ Zonar Zagreb and Hotel International, both of which have easy access to the city centre. For more information and to book, visit maistra.com/brands/city-vibesThis paid content article was created for Maistra City Vibes. It does not necessarily reflect the views of National Geographic, National Geographic Traveller (UK) or their editorial staffs.
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Publish date : 2024-12-01 00:08:00
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