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Louis’ pride and joy was a landscaped wonderland dotted with statues and fountains behind the palace. He loved his gardens and threw his biggest parties here. At the far end of the gardens — a good 40-minute walk from the palace — the pastoral Trianon/Domaine area features a fantasy world of palaces and pleasure gardens, providing Louis and his successors with an escape from their escape.
Versailles may be the most historically significant, but Vaux-le-Vicomte, just an hour away by car, is flat-out ravishing, with a harmony of architecture, interior decor and garden design that’s unrivaled. It gets my vote for the most beautiful chateau in all of France.
Vaux-le-Vicomte was the home of Nicolas Fouquet, France’s finance minister during the reign of Louis XIV. After attending Fouquet’s chateau-warming party in 1661, a very young Louis XIV was impressed yet envious. To demonstrate his appreciation, Louis had Fouquet thrown in prison, hired his architect, artist and landscape designer, and had them build Versailles. The atmosphere of the party is re-created on Saturday evenings in summer, when thousands of candles illuminate the palace while classical music plays in the background.
Compared to Versailles, Vaux-le-Vicomte feels more intimate, and, in some ways, more impressive. Driving up to it, you roll down a peaceful road lined with plane trees, which locals claim were planted by Napoleon so that his armies would have good shade to march under on their long treks across Europe. Vaux-le-Vicomte’s sculpted French garden was cutting-edge for its time and later would be copied in palaces all over Europe. And the palace is better furnished than Versailles, despite the fact that most of the paintings and furniture are not original (Louis confiscated what he liked for his own pad).
While Vaux-le-Vicomte and Versailles are French-designed, the Chateau of Fontainebleau — about an hour outside of Paris — was created by Italians. Though its architecture and lavishly furnished interior are appealing, it lacks Versailles’ unity. Originally built in 1528, Fontainebleau features a gangly and confusing series of wings that has grown with centuries of kings. Walking its halls, you can easily track the artistic shift in style, from Renaissance to ornate Rococo to the more sober, post-revolutionary Neoclassical.
As exhibited in its Napoleon I Museum, Fontainebleau has numerous connections to the French emperor. It was here that the pope met Napoleon before the general’s 1804 coronation. And it was from the chateau’s famous horseshoe-shaped staircase that Napoleon gave his stirring abdication speech, trading his rule of France for exile to Elba in 1814.
About 30 minutes north of Paris, the extravagant hunting palace of Chantilly floats serenely on a reflecting pond. Though it doesn’t have the well-preserved and grandiose interiors of other chateaus, Chantilly is notable for its impressive art.
After being destroyed during the French Revolution, the chateau was rebuilt in 1882 by Henri d’Orleans. He later filled it with a fabulous art collection featuring 800 paintings, including works by Raphael, Titian and Delacroix. His book collection, consisting of 15,000 titles, fills the chateau’s library.
Whether your interest is art, gardens or pure, over-the-top opulence, a trip to Paris isn’t complete without a dip into the countryside to visit the region’s grand chateaus.
Rick Steves writes European guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public TV and radio. Contact him at rick@ricksteves.com. His column runs on alternating weeks in the Travel section.
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Publish date : 2024-11-30 16:00:00
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