These small islands — an ancient intersection between Europe, Africa and the Middle East — are a potpourri of crossover cultures, identities, and streetscapes, set about sparkling bays, lively squares, medieval forts, and wave-lapped shores.
Malta’s got charm aplenty.
More’s to the point, everything works. It’s a safe, hassle-free idyll, where both English and the Euro are common currency.
The downsides? Parts are heavily urbanised, it is unlikely to meet the feverish summer holiday expectations of younger families, and you will find cheaper prices elsewhere in southern Europe.
That said, with all its lure and vivacity, it is a deeply atmospheric, romantic destination that is a ripe match for a solo escape or the more discerning couples’ break.
A Mediterranean island measuring a mere 316 sq km, or less than half the ‘wee county’ of Louth, over half a million inhabitants live on this archipelago with attitude.
Settlement boils down to the two larger islands of Malta and the smaller Gozo.
With Sicily and north Africa as neighbours, Malta’s geography is its history.
With few natural resources, scarce arable land, and scant freshwater supplies, what Malta offered was a pivotal position within the contested Mediterranean, and one with natural deep water ports to boot.
Settlement sprang from the ancient Sicilians, to be followed by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and Byzantines.
Then came waves of Arabs (from whom the Maltese language derives), Aragonese, the Knights of St John, the French, and the British bringing up the rear.
The country peacefully gained independence from Britain in 1964, joining the EU in 2004, while its unique history and architecture made it a star as multiple fictional settings in Game of Thrones, including King’s Landing and Westeros.
The streets of Valletta, Malta
While the Maltese capital occupies a fortified, chalky peninsula hardly 2km long, there is so much to experience here. Just get there and wander endlessly across this humming enclave, glowing golden in the sunlight, as the harbour waters lap up against its pale limestone walls.
Interior of St John’s Cathedral, Valletta, Malta
Dating to the 1570s, the unmissable interior of St John’s Cathedral ( stjohnscocathedral.com, €15) is lined with coloured marble tombstones, frescoes and treasure-filled chapels. There’s even a Caravaggio residing in the oratory!
Two minutes away is the Grandmaster’s Palace ( heritagemalta.mt, €12), founded by Grand Master of the Knights of Malta, Jean de Valette in 1574 and is today the seat of the office of the president of Malta.
However, almost all the building is accessible; come and marvel at the vast, opulent rooms adorned with collections of art and objects from Malta’s fascinating heritage.
With such a contested land in the heart of the Mediterranean, it’s little surprise that wars over the centuries tell so much of Malta’s past life.
While not glorifying war, the National War Museum ( heritagemalta.mt, €10) in the gargantuan Fort St Elmo is excellently curated, while the building and views alone are worth the entry price.
The Three Cities
A short boat trip less than 400m south from Valletta (€2 each way) lie three similarly ancient, heritage-packed peninsulas known as the Three Cities.
Anchored within an utterly stunning setting, these delightful headlands deserve at least a half day, stopping at Fort St Angelo ( heritagemalta.mt, €10).
Close to the fort is Rolling Geeks ( rolling-geeks.com), a self-drive electric buggy hire business that comes with pre-programmed GPS and audio guide.
The buggies fit up to four adults, and cost €90 for 2.5 hours of zipping around the area.
Mdina, Malta
Mdina is a paradigm of Malta: compact, ancient, loud, lively, and beautiful. A limestone hilltop citadel of baroque architecture, it served as Malta’s capital until 1530.
Take time to walk amongst the medieval buildings, imperious towers, winding alleyways, and fortified, castellated walls.
Right outside Mdina’s main gateway is Rabat — a charming warren of tight streets and numerous catacombs pulsing with dramatic atmosphere.
Located in the centre of the island, it’s simple to get here by public bus.
The neigbouring island of Gozo is a mere 14km x 7km in size, with 35,000 residents, needing a ferry ride over from Malta island.
The main town of Victoria is a petite, but lovely stroll, including Gozo Cathedral ( visitgozo.com), but the island’s 25 neolithic sites are in a different league.
Chief among these is Ġgantija Archaeological Park ( heritagemalta.mt, €10).
Older than the pyramids, the two temples making up this Unesco World Heritage site were only revealed (since antiquity) in the 19th century, and sport huge slabs of stone over 5m in length and 50 tonnes in weight.
While there is public transport about Gozo, a quirkier (and pricier) option is a chauffeur-driven tuk tuk, all the way from Thailand ( yippeemalta.com, €75 per day).
St, Joseph’s Church, Kalkara
Ever since St Paul was shipwrecked here in 60 AD, Christianity has burned like wildfire.
As if film extras in The Omen, crucifixes and Christian statuary are simply everywhere in Malta — you can barely take a leak without some extinct saint beaming down at you beatifically.
As the island was on the frontline of the Christian-Ottoman wars, the symbolism once shared the same sort of territory-marking totems as flags do in Northern Ireland communities today.
In the heart of Valletta is the boutique Captain’s Cut ( captainscutleather.com), founded and run by Keith Caruana, a retired Maltese Armed Forces Captain, with a weakness for bespoke leather craft, sourced from trusted sustainable tanneries.
There, you can partake in a make-your-own tobacco pouch workshop (€95), or belt workshop (€150) learning these traditional skills.
Yes, it’s certainly not cheap, but makes an enjoyable and rewarding afternoon, nonetheless, as Keith is the perfect, affable, and helpful host.
Ta’ Betta Wine Estate ( tabetta.com) should be a default stop-off for all wine lovers in Malta (by appointment only).
Situated in four hectares of terraced vineyards close to the heart of the island, they offer first-rate tours of the vineyard and winery, demystifying the mystique and artifice so often associated with wine.
Within a sumptuous decor, the tour is followed by a wine tasting of their excellent produce, served up with platters of cheese, meats, and savouries (from €50 per person).
Seafood in Malta
Traditional Maltese food is refreshingly rustic, seasonal, and tasty as hell, with lampuki pie (fish pie), rabbit stew, bragioli (beef olives), kapunata (a type of Maltese ratatouille), and sheep and goat’s cheese being favourites.
In Valletta, 59 Republic is excellent ( fiftyninerepublic.com).
In Gozo, try Ta-rikardu for cheese and wine grazing ( visitgozo.com/directory/tastes-of-gozo/ta-rikardu)
In the Three Cities you’ll find Don Berto, overlooking the marina with its vibrant Mediterranean flavours ( donberto.com).
The fields by St. John the Baptist Church, Xewkija
Consider when to visit
Be aware that Malta is windy – very windy.
The prevailing northwest wind rarely relents, but it does die down somewhat in summer.
While daytime summer averages rarely exceed 28° Celsius, like elsewhere in Europe, it will be high tourist season.
The island welcomes over 3 million tourists a year – more than 6 times its population.
Get there
Direct flights twice a week from Shannon, Dublin and Belfast.
Malta Air fly Shannon-Malta from approx. €119 return. Ryanair flies Dublin-Malta from approx. €151 return.
Malta’s public bus service is very regular, punctual, cost-effective, and easy to negotiate, taking cards or cash.
Ferry from the northern tip of Malta to Gozo – www.gozochannel.com, €4.65 return.
High speed ferry from Valletta to Gozo – www.gozohighspeed.com, €9.50 return (online offer).
Stay there
The 5-star Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa is located by Balluta beach, within the happening St. Julian’s district (roughly 20 minutes north of Valletta/city centre).
It has spacious, luxurious rooms and superb restaurants, pools and spa facilities.
The views out over the Med are a tonic, while the staff are superb.
Doubles from €211 per night. Visit www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/mlamc-malta-marriott-hotel-and-spa/
Tour operators from Ireland to Malta
Sunway Holidays; sunway.ie
Cassidy Travel; cassidytravel.ie
Budget Travel; budgettravel.ie
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Publish date : 2024-04-27 07:00:00
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