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Fiona prepares for some ‘rafting therapy’ (Fiona McIntosh)
That evening, as we bob around in the pool back at Aristi, we’re still reeling from the beauty of Zagori. Why didn’t we know about it before – and why are there so few Brits here? For most of us, Greece is still synonymous with lounge-lizarding on the islands. But on your next Grecian odyssey, I urge you to make a detour north to feed your soul for a different, autumnal experience.
What to do
The area is a total outdoor playground. You can hike (at any level) along well-marked paths, on your own or with a guide. We found a guide really helpful in creating a bespoke itinerary so we could work in as much as possible, from rafting breaks to mountain restaurant stops.
Other activities include kayaking, tubing, canyoning, paragliding, rock climbing, fishing, e-biking and even cross-country skiing in winter.
Where to eat
The food was excellent everywhere we ate, helped by the fact that this ecosystem provides an abundance of natural, organic produce. The menus are rich with market garden vegetables, mushrooms, yoghurts, lamb, chickpeas and slow-cooked goat stews. Here are some of the best:
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The view from the Astra Inn (Fiona McIntosh)
This impossibly pretty organic farm in the village of Papigo has a restaurant sprawled under grape vines, where owner Kostas uses his farm produce to create Greek mountain classics and liquors made from fermented fruits and herbs. Make a day of it and walk up to picturesque Makro Papigo, then swim in limestone rock pools at the foot of the village.
Restaurateur and environmental scientist Vasilis specialises in mushrooms at his rustic restaurant in the village of Vitsa, including butter-soft grilled shiitake mushrooms and candied chanterelles served with Greek yoghurt, semifreddo and bee pollen.
Sit on the terrace overlooking the pretty village of Dilofo and enjoy a simple but delicious menu of local staples.
A more sophisticated spin on Greek mountain fare, which has won it several awards for contemporary Greek cuisine, all overlooking one of the most spectacular views in the region.
Where to stay
There are a number of guesthouses in the area to suit every budget, but even at the top end, the prices are very reasonable. This is not a ritzy hotel kind of place.
Zagori Philoxenia Hotel, from £71 per night (breakfast included) for a double room with two people sharing.
The Aristi Mountain Resort and Spa is a five-time winner of the World’s Leading Eco Lodge. It has 26 rooms, two swimming pools, a spa and an award-winning restaurant in a spectacular setting – book well in advance. Prices start from £140 for a double room (breakfast included) with two people sharing.
When to visit
Even though it has a milder climate than the coast, it can get hot in summer. Shoulder seasons of April, May and early June, then September and October, are the best.
How to get there
Jet2 and easyJet fly to Preveza, then take a 2.5-hour transfer. Or, fly to Athens and take an internal flight to the small airport of Ioannina, which is 35 minutes from Aristi, the largest village in the Zagori region.
Read more: The lesser-known ‘Greek Caribbean’ island where you can holiday like a celeb at an affordable price
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Publish date : 2024-10-19 22:03:00
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